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Tuesday, March 19, 2013

Should solo female travelers avoid India? India’s moral crisis: Travel Rape advisories are now real!

Why India is not safe for solo women?
via  http://www.firstpost.com/india/indias-moral-crisis-travel-rape-advisories-are-now-real-665215.html

If you think that responsible countries should formally warn their women travelers of the high risk of rape they face in India, especially in the wake of the gangrape of a Swiss tourist in Madhya Pradesh, don't be surprised.

Western countries have already issued travel advisories to their women travelers clearly telling them they are not safe in India; that they are at risk of being raped.

What a great image make-over for a super-power aspirant and the Incredible India campaigners. It's incredibly shameful that in the whole of South Asia, it's only India that has been singled out for this rape travel advisory! That too in a country that gets more than USD 120 billion every year from tourists.

A Swiss woman, center, who, according to police, was gang-raped by a group of eight men while touring by bicycle with her husband, is escorted by policewomen. AP
Bangladesh, Pakistan, Nepal and Sri Lanka don't have the size and money to come anywhere close to India. On paper, they may be more lawless and crisis-ridden too, but the men in those countries do not pounce on women the way we do in India, and the rest of the world are more relaxed in advising their women while they travel there.

But guess what? 85 percent of South Asia is India and therefore, India's taint besmirches the whole of the region. The rest of South Asia, for once, should be ashamed of India!

There are only very few countries in the world that carry such an ignominy. Even Papua New Guinea, which appears to be India's cousin in its pastime of raping women, carries a less severe advisory.

This is what the UK tells its citizens of the rape-risks in India:
"Women should use caution if travelling alone in India. Reported cases of sexual assault against women and young girls are increasing; recent sexual attacks against female visitors in tourist areas and cities show that foreign women are also at risk. British women have been the victims of sexual assault in Goa, Delhi, Bangalore and Rajasthan and women travellers often receive unwanted attention in the form of verbal and physical harassment by individuals or groups of men."

And what does America tell its women travellers?
"While India is generally safe for foreign visitors, according to the latest figures by Indian authorities, rape is the fastest growing crime in India. Among large cities, Delhi experienced the highest number of crimes against women. Although most victims have been local residents, recent sexual attacks against female visitors in tourist areas underline the fact that foreign women are at risk and should exercise vigilance."

The advisory goes on to add that women can be "Eve-teased", subjected to sexual harassment that can be frightening, and there could be "sexually suggestive lewd comments to catcalls to outright groping."

"Women should observe stringent security precautions, including avoiding use of public transport after dark without the company of known and trustworthy companions, restricting evening entertainment to well-known venues, and avoiding isolated areas when alone at any time of day."

Why the heck should any woman travel to India in such scary conditions? Just to be shut up in their hotel rooms or eat, pray and love? It's better, perhaps, to go to the Central African Republic.

Last month, even Switzerland had advised its women to be careful in India, but perhaps the tourist in Madhya Pradesh fell for the romantic allure of India's lawlessness and hopelessness, which some philosophise as mystic chaos. Almost exactly how we are adept in reconciling with our abject poverty as part of our spiritual being, some have even started philosophising on rapes.

The western countries have now realised that the risks of rape in India are real. Rape of women appears to be a national pastime. The Delhi gangrape had provoked an unprecedented citizens' response in the national capital and the states, but that didn't make any impact on the situation.

Delhi alone reported at least two rapes every day in the two months following the gangrape. There were equally horrendous incidents of rapes from different parts of the country, which are still continuing. Going by the number so far, perhaps we might surpass last year's rape-tally of 24,000.

In the case of Madhya Pradesh, the Swiss national will be just a speck because it anyway accounts of 14 per cent of the country's rapes.

Right now, we are in the middle of legislating a tough law to protect women against sexual violence. Will this law make any difference to the safety of women in India?

Mostly unlikely, because, as we argued earlier, the sexual violence against women has to be looked at in the context of the overall lawlessness and gender-inequality that prevails in India. No law will be able to address this. It will require a fundamental social transformation, wherein rule of law and equal rights to women is a reality.

But, this will be bad news for our politicians and hence is unlikely to happen.

The new law might scare some people, but as post-Delhi evidence shows, nothing is likely to change in terms of the risk of women to sexual violence and rapes because majority of our rapists or potential rapists won't even know the gravity of their criminality and its consequences.

A Haus Khas student didn't think twice before spiking an overseas girl's drink and raping her last month even as the national media was abuzz with post-Delhi outrage. Neither was a resort manager in Bhopal deterred from raping a south Korean girl in the same month.

Even from a narrow perspective of making the new law work, the state and central governments should undertake an extraordinary nationwide campaign against this phenomenon just as it took on polio or AIDS. It should tell people from every possible outlet and street-corner that they will be in jail if they aggress women. The government needs to spend at least a couple of billion dollars for a few years at a stretch on this because it is an extraordinary epidemic that needs an extraordinary response.



Is India safe for a solo female traveler, traveling by herself?
http://www.indiasomeday.com/solo-female-travel-in-india.php

Bollywood films might be projecting Indian women in a very glamorous and fashionable manner but when it comes to real women on the streets of India the ground realities are poles apart. When you travel across India as a female traveler, you have to keep in mind that India is still predominantly a conservative country. The gender difference in the society and hypocrisy is immense here. 
In spite of the popularity that India shares amongst western travellers and the millions of tourists that flock towards India each year, Indians still are greatly fascinated by white skin. Even the most cosmopolitan cities of India such as Mumbai or Delhi cannot be counted as an exception.
General perception of foreign woman traveling across India alone
There is no doubt that Indian men are hugely attracted to white women, even more so with women who have blond hair and blue eyes. Blame it on the movies or media, the general perception of a white woman here is that she is easy, flirtatious, lacks values, drinks, smokes and is looking out to have sex.
General Harassment's a solo female traveler in India may be expected to face
Some of the most common annoyances faced by solo women travellers in India are the constant starring, provocative comments, lewd gestures, cat calls and physical advances. In some rare cases women have also reported cases of groping.
Having said all of the above, there is no need to be panic or get worried to the point of paranoia. Most Indians are friendly and will go out of their way to help you. Indian families in generally are extremely hospitable and welcoming.
The important thing is to be aware of the surroundings and to trust your gut feeling. Although there is no foolproof way to shield yourself from sexual harassment, there definitely are certain things you can do to minimise the annoyances. 
Be Alert, Come prepared 
The idea of this article is not to put you in a state of anxiety but to prepare you for your 'Indian' journey, especially as a solo female traveler. Prior to your trip do read about India and try to understanding the Indian culture, traditions and customs.  There are several blogs and websites that provide you with lots of information and tips if you are a solo woman traveller in India. Here is one to get you started:
http://www.journeywoman.com/girltalk/india/indeindia.html 
What to wear In India
Cities like Mumbai or Delhi and Goa are comparatively open but nevertheless, we would suggest you to dress modestly. Always look at the way the local women dress. Avoid wearing plunging necklines, shorts, miniskirts and body hugging clothes.  Many women who have travelled India say that wearing the Salwaar Kameez reduces the unwanted male attention to a great extent, especially if you are travelling to the rural regions of India.
Salwaar Kameez is a common outfit worn in most parts of India by Indian women. Salwar is the bottom which is worn like a pant and Kameez is the loose top. This outfit is usually accompanied with a dupatta which is a long multi-purpose scarf. All put together the dress is not only attractive but also comfortable and available is a variety of colours and patterns. Wherever you are in the country it is very easy to get it tailor made for less than Rs 300. In all Metro cities, brands such as Fabindia, Global Desi, W for Women have some awesome Salwaar Kameez collection. India can get really hot so make sure when you buy a Salwaar Kameez it is light cotton or a fabric that breathes easy. 
Swimwear
Another important thing to note is that in spite of having such an enormous coastline, India doesn't really have a beach culture (except Goa and popular tourist beaches). It's extremely rare to find Indian women swim wearing a swim suit. Most of the time they get into the water completely dressed in a Saree or Salwaar Kameez and they don't even swim. Most of the time, they just dip their feet into water.
Apart from Goa and few other tourist places. it's hard to see anyone swim wearing swimsuits. We would advise you not to venture out to find an isolated beach and swim wearing a bikini alone. It is advisable that when you choose to go for a swim, you try to find a place where you can see other tourists' swimming. It is much safer to go in a group. Don't be surprised if you see people secretly clicking your photos in a swimsuit on their mobiles! 
Transportation
Avoid travelling without reservation.  It is better to book the three tier AC compartment rather than the general non AC compartment for an over-night journey in the train. When you book a train tickets try to get the upper berth as it will provide you more privacy and distance you from potential gropers.
When it comes to buses, avoid night journeys in general. Beware of the double sleeper bus tickets that some private bus companies sell! What they fail to tell you is that the double sleeper bus actually has a narrow double sleeper berth, without any separation for two people to share. Things can get really uncomfortable if you have to share this berth with a man.
In most metro cities you can find several private taxi services such as Meru cabs, Mega cab, gold cab and more, whom you can call if you have to get to the airport late at night or reach some place in the wee hours. Make sure that there is no one apart from you and the driver in the taxi. Most train stations and airports have pre-paid taxi service available around-the-clock.
Sometimes it's good to be a woman. Make the most of it!
Most local trains have a 'Ladies boogie' which lets only women travel to their destination safely. Most railway stations also have a special 'Ladies queue' to get tickets. All local buses have 'Ladies seats' reserved for women. In case of a long distance journey by train, all railway stations have ladies waiting rooms where you can rest for few hours in case of train delays. 
Two is a company
It is easy to meet fellow solo travellers in Hostels or hotels and team up and go travelling together for some part of your journey. In case you end up travelling with a foreign man, most Indian men would assume that you both are a couple and leave you alone.
Some more tips
General safety rules such as: don't venture out alone at night or roam around in lonely alleys all by yourself, do not accept food from strangers even if they eat a portion of the food they offer you, apply everywhere in India as in any other country. 
Indian men can be persistent. It's better if you ignore and avoid staring back at people who constantly stare at you as it could be considered as a sign of interest you seem to be showing in them.
While booking a hotel check out the room beforehand and see that the hotel has other foreign guests or families staying there at the same time as you.
Do not smoke just outside the temple or in rural villages as this will immediately attract all sorts of unwanted attention. 
It has been reported that some masseurs in Varanasi, McLeodganj and Goa have tried to molest female tourists. Always try to check the reputation of the masseur beforehand. 
If you are sick or have some gynaecological problem try to visit a female doctor.
Keep conversations with strangers short, to the point and lust-free. Don't encourage inane conversations as this might be taken as a sign of sexual interest. 
Always carry a book with you or an i-pod. This could help in avoiding chit-chat with unwanted people. 
Finally... don't be afraid!
Create a scene: most men will back off when they know you can raise your voice and put him to shame.
Say NO: Indian people in general can be very clingy. In case of any annoyance don't encourage it. State clearly that you are not interested.
Ask for help: Indian people are generally very helpful. If you are lost or you cannot reach a place, always ask for help or directions. 
India is an amazing country full of surprises. Warding off sexual attention is a matter of common sense. So get ready to discover this magnificent land and don't let anything stop you! We have no doubt that your journey will be nothing less than Incredible! 
About Us – We are 'India Someday', we help travelers plan a well thought out, personalized, yet cost-effective holiday to India. Click on 'home' to explore our website and our service.


Pigeons soar over the dome of Jama Masjid in Old Delhi. The author found similar scenes of peacefulness everywhere she went in India.

When we travel abroad, sometimes we stumble and sometimes we fall -- in love with a country.

In December, I set off on a three-week journey through India, making my way from the north to the south.
 
"India?!"

Everyone thought I was nuts to go there on holiday; moreover, to travel alone as a twenty-something female. Indians and non-Indians alike expressed dismay, warning I'd be subjected to constant staring, groping and harassment, among an assortment of inconveniences and evils.
 
"You are a brave, brave woman," a colleague said, shaking his head upon hearing I'd be travelling mostly by train and bus.

"Brave." This was the invariable reaction to my trip. I sensed it was a euphemism for "crazy."

I left Hong Kong wondering if I was being foolhardy. But by the end of my first day in India, I started to feel that, true to the tourism department's slogan, India was indeed incredible.

In light of the horrific New Delhi gang rape, India has been painted with a broad brush as a dangerous, misogynistic jungle for women. 
 
While respecting the validity of experiences of women who have been violated there, I'd like to share an alternative perspective -- of a country incredibly rich in warmth, kindness and humanity.

More on CNN: 

Should solo female travelers avoid India?

Following the horrifying New Delhi gang rape, a CNN staffer recounts her experiences traveling alone through the country

'Men often stepped aside to make way for me' 

My first stop was New Delhi, coincidentally on the same day the rape occurred.  

In the morning, as I fumbled my way to the Rajendra Nagar metro station, I sought directions from random male strangers on the street, from shopkeepers to shabby men sitting in the bus shelter. Anyone I approached for help immediately stopped what he was doing and patiently tried to help me without asking for anything in return -- a pattern that would continue for me throughout the country.
 
One aspect of India that struck me was the large groups of men seemingly loitering in the streets, with few to no women present. As a fellow traveler put it, "Men roam in packs."  

The crowded bazaars of Chandi Chowk, Old Delhi. Despite the crowds, the author never experienced any harassment.A journalist in New Delhi told me the masses of men were unemployed migrants, while the father at my homestay assured me they were employed, explaining that men tended to socialize outside the home, in contrast to women who often gather indoors.
 
While their numbers were initially intimidating, the men never hassled me and were inevitably the people whom I approached for directions.
 
I spent my first day in arguably the city's most chaotic area, Old Delhi, wading through the bazaars of Chandi Chowk and Daryganj. Despite the crowds, I never experienced any leering, jeering or other harassment. Vendors were friendly and helpful.
 
Throughout the country, I experienced minimal staring. I was never groped in the streets or on public transportation; in fact, men often stepped aside to make way for me. On long-distance trains and buses, I could always count on offers to help me with my heavy suitcase.

When I got lost in Kochi, a young man nearby saw my confused face and spoke with my host on the phone. He helped me flag down a rickshaw, gave directions to the driver and negotiated a reasonable fare.
 
On the ferry in Kochi, as I sat next to an old lady eating roasted peanuts from a newspaper cone, she turned her palm up, gesturing for me to do the same. The next thing I knew, she poured a pile of peanuts into my hand.

These are but a few examples. 

More on CNN: India's other hippie trail

Are foreigners treated with more respect?

I acknowledge that being perceived as a foreigner can inform your treatment in any country. With my Han Chinese ethnicity and what some have described as a "mixed" appearance, I was often taken to be Japanese and, surprisingly, sometimes Indian.
 
"Especially when you wear a kurta, they probably think you're a light-skinned Indian from the northeast," ventured an Indian friend in New Delhi. 

This proved to be true at the Kumbhalgarh Fort, when a friendly Indian couple I shared a car with for the day decided to purchase me a five-rupee admission ticket intended for Indian nationals. 

When the gatekeeper questioned if I was a foreigner, the couple countered: "She's from Nagaland. Nagaland is a part of India, isn't it?" 

Jokes aside, are foreigners treated with more respect and courtesy? Taking it further, would, say, a Swedish woman be treated differently than a Chinese woman? If I have an ambiguous local-foreign ethnicity, but consistently have a positive reception, what does that mean? 

Can being a single female actually be advantageous when traveling?  Do I cut a more sympathetic, accessible figure?  

"People want to protect you," theorized a young New Delhi-based female journalist.

What I can say for sure is that I was deeply touched by the friendliness and kindness I encountered.
  
The only exception to the courtesy I encountered was when dealing with autorickshaw drivers, many who take an aggressive, mercenary approach toward tourists. But drivers can be handled with a confident manner, advance research of the market price of a given route and the knowledge you can walk over to another one instead.
 
Some may deem me naïve to India's realities or explain away my overwhelmingly positive experience as the privilege of an outsider.  

Amber Fort, Jaipur.Other single female travelers I encountered -- from the United States, Germany, England and Australia -- told me they generally felt safe in India, aside from uncomfortable staring at times. (Interestingly, I observed that being next to a white female served to detract all attention from me.)

While the New Delhi gang rape was indeed horrifying, I didn't feel the need for heightened alarm or increased vigilance. The case certainly turned the spotlight on the occurrence of rape in India, but it didn't indicate a sudden uptick in rape nor did it turn all Indian men into rapists overnight.

Even the homestay hosts I lodged with didn't express particular concern for my safety as a single female traveler. Truth be told, to my amusement, my hosts were much more worried about my unmarried status -- I'm considered over the hill by Indian standards. At one homestay, I was even handed the Sunday matrimonial classifieds to look for a vegetarian husband.

Disbelievers back home

My intention isn't to gloss over any of India's challenges. It's often dirty, dusty and dilapidated, with supersize servings of noise and crowds. But there's also incredible beauty and humanity in what may seem like endless chaos.  

More on CNN: Kumbh Mela, the world's biggest religious festival

I was troubled upon my return to Hong Kong by how eager people were to demonize India, and how reluctant they were to believe anything good about the country. 

My safe and welcoming experience was met with deep skepticism and hasty rationalizations. "You were just lucky."  "It's safe until it's not safe."

Even the cleaning women, like this one at the Amber Fort, Jaipur, dress in beautiful saris.If I said I'd been harassed within an inch of my life, my experience would likely have been accepted wholeheartedly. 

Last week, a crisis center in Hong Kong saidrape occurred every three hours in the city -- shouldn't I be more worried for my safety back at home?  

I've lived abroad for a decade now, half in the West and half in greater China, and I've traveled on my own to nearly a dozen countries during this time, mostly in Asia.  While I'm no Paul Theroux, I believe traveling to the fullest means keeping your mind and heart open, unencumbered by suspicion and stereotypes. 

"Someone like you who looks for good things will always find them," a guide in Agra had told me. India is a land of plenty if you care to see it.

It was easy to be seduced by the Indo-Islamic monuments of the north, the lush hills etched with rows of tea plants in the south, the rhythmic calls of the snack wallahs on the trains, the ambiguous head bobble I unconsciously began to pick up, the languorous wails of qawaali, the gorgeous saris worn even by cleaning women and the depth of religious devotion. 

But what touched me the most, setting India apart from the dozens of other countries I've visited, was the extraordinary friendly, helpful and courteous people I met -- men and women alike.

The opinions expressed in this commentary are solely those of Alexis Lai, drawn on the experience she had recently in India. What are your thoughts? Do you feel safe traveling solo? Have the recents events in India impacted your desire to travel there?


There's no need for solo females to avoid India, if they travel smart, writes Ute Junker.

Georgia Arlott's experience with aggressive men in India, featured on Fairfax Media sites yesterday, paints a picture of a society where no woman traveller could be safe. But an entire nation should not be written off due to one person's bad experience.

Women can travel safely in India, but some caution and common sense is advised.

My first night in Delhi, I had a leisurely dinner with friends, and arrived back late to the YWCA where I was staying. Three male staff were waiting up for me. "Madam, we wondered when you were coming back," they said.

One of the most memorable aspects of travelling solo in India was the care and concern shown by men at every stage of my journey. Many had never had anything to do with a western woman before; none of them had ever encountered one travelling on her own. They were slightly perplexed, and very protective.

Take the three men with whom I shared a first-class sleeper compartment from Delhi to Trivandrum, a journey that took the best part of four days. Having just completed an arduous trek - followed by one hell of a party – I slept for the first 16 hours on the train. When I awoke, my bunk mates told me that the dinner wallah had wanted to wake me up for meals, but they had stopped him.

"You need sleep more than you need food," they told me firmly.

Clearly, they had appointed themselves my guardians. Over the next few days, they marshalled the constant stream of visitors that stopped by our compartment, intrigued by the solo female traveller. Mainly businessmen, our visitors inevitably wanted to show off their sales books. I'd leaf through them politely, until the point when my bodyguards decided we'd had enough visitors for the day, and sent them packing.

That's not to say no men tried their luck. During my stay in India, I got my share of lewd suggestions and even the odd wandering hand – but no more so than in other countries. When someone was out of line, I found the most effective technique to be a public scolding.

"What do you think you're doing?" I would ask, loudly. "How would you feel if a man treated your mother or sister like that?"

It's a technique that works in most countries, and India is no exception. The offender would quickly move away, hands raised and looking apologetic.

On the odd occasion when an admirer was a bit too persistent – following me down the street, for instance – the information that I was on my way to meet my (non-existent) husband was enough to discourage him.

Having said that, India is not the best place to take your first solo trip. Any Westerner walking down any street will attract attention - anything from silent staring to beggars trying to block your way. Women naturally attract more attention than men. It takes confidence and experience to shrug that off and enjoy your holiday. That's second nature to an experienced solo traveller, but it can be challenging to novices.

As always when travelling alone, your best companion is your common sense. Dress appropriately for local standards – this is not the place to parade your fave mini-skirt and crop top ensemble – and be prepared to spend a bit more on accommodation, even if you're on a budget: staying in a good part of town is always a wise strategy.

Mostly, I advise solo travellers to avoid crowds, but in India's busy cities, that's simply not possible. Still, avoid festivals unless you have someone to go with. In any country, festival crowds don't play by the usual rules, and men are much more likely to take a chance when they know they can fade into the mass if something goes wrong. It's not worth the risk.

Teaming up with one or two other travellers you meet on the way may give you more flexibility, but travelling with a group of girls won't bring safety in numbers. You'll just attract more attention, rather than less.

Even if you're usually a "wherever the road takes me" traveller, take the time to plan things out. Don't arrive in a new town without having accommodation booked.  Climbing into a cab by yourself and asking a cab driver to take you to a decent hotel is not the smartest move.

And don't go taking the road less travelled. While popular tourist areas such as Delhi, Rajasthan and Kerala are fairly safe, save less-developed states for another trip, when you're with a friend.

The single most important thing to pack, however, is confidence. Walk purposefully, look as if you know what you're doing, and be ready to call out bad behaviour, and you'll find the worst of it passes you by.

Read Georgia Arlott's piece on her experience with harassment in India here.

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